How much to spend for a first bike?
2007
A reader writes:
I have been riding a pretty old and worn out Schwinn Letour circa 1980. I am wondering what is a decent investment in a new bike that would not get laughed at when you pull up to the line at a race?
I’m hoping some other readers can jump in in the comments and give their take, but here’s how I replied:
Expect to spend around $1,000-$1,200 for a new bike. That’s about the minimum for a raceworthy set-up.
People just starting out shouldn’t get hung up on bling, and one shouldn’t spend much more than that because: 1. There are a lot of hidden costs down the road (race fees, team costs, transportation costs, other equipment) that one should save for. 2. You might end up not enjoying the sport, but if you don’t you’ll still have a good bike for long rides. 3. If you do fall in love with the sport, you’ll want to upgrade in a year or two anyhow once you know more about racing and what kind of bike would be good for you.
Pay more attention to components than frame manufacturer. In that price range, most frames are for all intents and purposes the same, but you’ll want a reliable set of components. If you go Shimano, that means 105 or Ultegra. Stay away from Sora or Tiagra.
Steel? Aluminum? Carbon? Doesn’t matter. What matters more is whether it fits correctly and whether you go to a good shop that will give you the service you’ll need as a racer.
My first racing bike was a steel Jamis Quest. In 2005 this ran $1,200 and came with mostly Ultegra parts and heavy but sturdy Mavic Cosmos wheels. It was the perfect entry-level racer, and my neighborhood shop always gave me top-notch attention. I got dropped from most of my races that year, but I still would have gotten dropped if I were riding a $7,000 dream machine.
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Jun 6
2007
11:01 pm
ScottV
The first bike I bought was a steel bike: Lemond Buenos Aires for $1500. At that point, I had no idea I would be racing, so I bought for comfort and the classic style of steel. The drawback in racing my steel bike is that it is pretty flexy overall, but especially in the bottom bracket. Also, it has a much longer wheelbase that the typical racing bike.
If I were buying an entry level racing bike, I would buy an aluminum bike with carbon seat stays, fork and seat post. That should be the most inexpensive frame. This will give you some comfort, but also give you a bike that is stiff for sprinting. Also, look for a minimum of 105 parts and make sure it is a double with 53x39 cranks. Oh, and also look for shorter chainstays and a lower rake fork which will shorten the wheelbase. This will make the bike very responsive for handling and cornering. It also makes it better for time trialing when adding aero bars.
A specialized allez and the Giant TCR A1 are good choices as well as a Leader 736R which can be found on the internet. The Allez comp can be had at $1600 list and the Giant TCR A1 can be had for $1400 list, while the Leader 736R can be had for between $1200-$1300 but you have to pay someone to put it together. All have their pros and cons in their componentry (i.e. the TCR comes with a 50/34 crank and the Leader doesn’t have carbon seat stays.)
No matter what, make sure you get a good bike fitting before ordering a bike. Even if you have to pay for it before ordering a bike, it will be the best investment and lead to more enjoyable riding and racing.
And most importantly, don’t race a bike that you are uable replace!! There are those of us that have crashed and will crash again, and those of us that will eventually crash. It is part of the sport even for those cyclists who don’t race.
Hope that helps.