A reader writes: Is it necessary to pre-register for races? Do they all tend to fill up?

Two related trends bode well for our sport: More and more races are providing online pre-registration, and more and more races are reaching capacity, especially in the Cat 5’s. (USA Cycling limits Cat 5 fields to 50 riders, and Cat 4/5 fields to 75.)

The risk of pre-registering is that it may rain, or something may come up to conflict with the race and you’ll be on the hook for your $25. (Curse those loved ones with the gall to wed at the height of racing season!) Promoters usually don’t often provide refunds, and few will go through the hassle of transferring registration to your teammates.

But the risk is worth it if it’s a race you have your heart set on and there’s a possibility it will fill. Alas, I know of no women’s races to have filled up, nor P/1/2’s or 3’s, but the Tour of Elk Grove, Downers Grove and the Chicago Criterium are all local races where we can expect the Cat 5 and Cat 4 fields to fill. Last the local Superweek races filled their 4/5 fields, starting with Evanston, and Wisconsin’s Spring Prairie Road Race has in the past filled its 4/5 fields.

Finally, Hillsboro-Roubaix will fill up the quickest of any race, as we discovered this year, and Snake Alley is a race for which it’s essential to pre-register, not because it will fill up but because start position is so crucial.

For most other races, however, one can safely count on registering on the day of, but you never know: Even this year’s Spring Super Criterium, an untested race two hours from the city with no money on the line, filled several of its fields, to its promoters’ credit. Better to be safe than to drive 100 miles to be a spectator.

Reader Jason writes:

I’ve recently been practicing some out-of-saddle sprints, usually coming out of 90-degree corners. As soon as I start pulling on the drops and push hard on the cranks, my front end starts to float as if I’m trying to do a wheelie, regardless of whether I’ve shifted my body weight to the front by standing up. Usually the front just lifts a couple of inches from the ground on the downstroke, but it’s the sideways hopping that I’m concerned about. Is there a correct/safer way to do sprints like these? Am I just using the wrong gear/cog?

I’m afraid I’m not expert enough of a sprinter to give Jason a good answer, but I bet others can. A little help for our sprinter?

Peter Allen (XXX Racing-AthletiCo) writes:

What is the general rule/practice for race directors when it comes to canceling or postponing races due to weather?  The reason I ask is the thunderstorm forecast for this weekend.  I figure the race will go on if there is light rain, but they might cancel or delay due to lightning or heavy rain.  Any words of wisdom?

Rule 1E2(h) of the USCF rule book says, “Road races are normally run rain or shine.” Indeed, my experience is that promoters will race no matter the conditions. Weather patterns in the Midwest are too fickle to do otherwise, and it’s too much work to change permits and find volunteers for new dates. (My experience also includes two bad crashes while racing in the rain, so proceed at your own peril.)

That said, several Indiana races were canceled this spring because of extreme cold, and no promoter worth his insurance premiums will send riders into a lightning storm. The good news is that our thunderstorms tend to be brief and isolated, so schedules can be adjusted around them. Expect delays but don’t count on them.

A reader writes:

I have been riding a pretty old and worn out Schwinn Letour circa 1980. I am wondering what is a decent investment in a new bike that would not get laughed at when you pull up to the line at a race?

I’m hoping some other readers can jump in in the comments and give their take, but here’s how I replied:

Expect to spend around $1,000-$1,200 for a new bike. That’s about the minimum for a raceworthy set-up.

People just starting out shouldn’t get hung up on bling, and one shouldn’t spend much more than that because: 1. There are a lot of hidden costs down the road (race fees, team costs, transportation costs, other equipment) that one should save for. 2. You might end up not enjoying the sport, but if you don’t you’ll still have a good bike for long rides. 3. If you do fall in love with the sport, you’ll want to upgrade in a year or two anyhow once you know more about racing and what kind of bike would be good for you.

Pay more attention to components than frame manufacturer. In that price range, most frames are for all intents and purposes the same, but you’ll want a reliable set of components. If you go Shimano, that means 105 or Ultegra. Stay away from Sora or Tiagra.

Steel? Aluminum? Carbon? Doesn’t matter. What matters more is whether it fits correctly and whether you go to a good shop that will give you the service you’ll need as a racer.

My first racing bike was a steel Jamis Quest. In 2005 this ran $1,200 and came with mostly Ultegra parts and heavy but sturdy Mavic Cosmos wheels. It was the perfect entry-level racer, and my neighborhood shop always gave me top-notch attention. I got dropped from most of my races that year, but I still would have gotten dropped if I were riding a $7,000 dream machine.